Last morning at the Edinburgh Fringe

Rather than dash off (and we did have a substantial drive from Edinburgh to London to contend with) we decided that we just couldn't tear ourselves away and another trip to the centre of town was in order. Edinburgh is like that, it gets under your skin and leaving gets harder every time.

Once again we threw ourselves on the mercy of the flyers out and about in late morning sun but it was actually a comic who overheard our conversation that solved the problem of what to do. Of course, a performance showcase! This is the perfect way of getting a taste of some great acts at the fringe but take my advice do this at the beginning of each day and not at the end of your trip to get the real benefits.

image of Lee Camp: standanddeliver.blogs.com

Back in the cave where we had seen Henning Wehn we were treated to an hour of about 8 different performers, from a group doing sketches from Bristol University to a fantastic music comedy and juggling routine from Lancashire. But the highlight, and I really feel we lucked out here, was a young stand up all the way from the US called Lee Camp and we were treated to a tiny taster of his show Destruction! Distraction! Evolution? Oh we wished we'd come across him sooner as his star is definitely on the rise and expect to see (and hear) much more from him.

The Guardian is quoted as saying 'for those still mourning for Bill Hicks, you'll find plenty to enjoy' and although the comedy is very much planted in US culture it translates easily and he references Edinburgh and the UK easily into his set.

He has already been banned from Fox News for being 'anti-American' but he simply puts iPhones, Fox News and all the pressures of modern day living under the comedy microscope. Brilliant delivery, slick, well-written comedy that actually says something - all too rare these days and highly reminiscent of the satirical and political comedy of the Eighties, Lee Camp is a breath of fresh air not to be missed if you get the chance! Alternatively visit Lee Camp and download his podcast for a great sample of his sharp wit and wisdom.

Or check him out here.


   

Edinburgh Fringe - second day and things get serious

Supermen and women on The Royal Mile

It's when you wake up in the morning in Edinburgh and realise that there are far too many shows to even begin to get your head around, that you realise that just getting up and out there is the best course of action. Experience tells me that 4-5 shows in a day is hard-core but do-able. I am sure there are those who get to do more, but I find that after 4 my brain gets a bit too full.

So second day on the streets of Edinburgh and what did we see?

Well we saw lots and lots of flyer-ing on the Royal Mile - start from there to get a feel for the atmosphere and what you'd like to see.

Selling a show on the Royal Mile

We had already pre-booked theatre in the form of the world premier of An Actor's Lament by and starring Steven Berkoff after lunch, and Adam Hills in the early evening, so had plenty of hours to fill - but what to choose?

So the first thing to get us in the mood was a comedy showcase Just the Tonic off the Royal Mile. We got to see 4 stand-up comedians plus compare for £5 - a pound a pop which was much cheaper than the laughs which were really rather good. Checking out new comics is best done via a showcase - then you can decide to see a fuller set by a particular comic at a later date should you choose. These showcases are often free but if you want quality then it is best to pay something, even if it's just a fiver!

Photo: Berwickshire News

Steven Berkoff's An Actor's Lament was our biggest ticket in terms of price and it was definitely an event that had to be booked way in advance. Joined on stage by actors Jay Benedict and Andree Bernard, this new play gives us an insight into the world of theatre from the point of view of an actor, director and writer.

Never one to miss the opportunity to have a pop at critics (Berkoff is well-known for his intolerance of critics) which he does vociferously in the opening speech, he also puts actors themselves under his own particular spotlight showing up their ego-centricities, vanities and of course their enormous frailty. He takes on the world of theatre but also can't resist pulling apart TV soaps and films that are churned out for the money rather than the artistic value. We see the frustrations of being a performer laid bare for all the world to see, but in my opinion the star of the show is the language itself which is both melodic and has acerbic wit but above all is really quite funny. If you get a chance to see it at a future date then grab it - a real theatrical treat is in store.

The Dance Dome

The wonderful thing about Edinburgh is that you can go and see things you wouldn't normally and it won't be a costly mistake. Our little group all like dance and physical theatre so DanceDome in particular caught our eye. This 'event' took place in a large inflatable dome at the bottom of Cowgate in Dance Base and is a 360 degree film created by an international crew based in Cardiff. Using digital technology, cinema and some great choreography the dancers leapt and wove in film above our heads while the rain absolutely bucketed down outside. There were three films in total featuring everything from contemporary dance to parkour and breakdance - and all with original music. Explore more at The Dance Dome.

The very funny Adam Hills

Adam Hills was our other hot ticket this trip with Adam Hills: Happyism at The Assembly Hall. He opens his show with an audience member joining him on stage for improvised banter which he clearly loves as much as his set. Off-the-cuff and wonderfully spontaneous, Adam Hills is obviously joyful to be alive and although he has a spring in his step his show is one of many layers covering topics from what's not acceptable in society, drawing on his own experiences on US TV, to the differences between Aussie and British culture. It is far more sophisticated than you first imagine seamlessly switching from one topic to another, but he does make an audience laugh - really laugh. He will soon be up with the greats in terms of stand-up and I'm not surprised he has packed out such a large venue for two weeks here in Edinburgh. He overran by 15 minutes - apparently this happens a lot - which isn't great if you've got another show to catch, but it was obvious that he could have gone on all night if time had allowed, we were all having so much fun.

   

Where to stay in Edinburgh when the fringe is on

The Edinburgh Fringe is one of the largest festivals of it's type and actually sits alongside a further 9 festivals held in Edinburgh during the month of August. So to say that Edinburgh gets a bit busy is something of an understatement!

This is our third trip in the last decade so are fairly experienced in terms of the best ways of approaching it all. First off is to pre-book your travel and accommodation and in the case of Edinburgh during August, you really mustn't leave everything to the last minute. If you do, all that will be left will be hotels with exorbitant prices - you may be lucky and get into Edinburgh University accommodation but if you're looking for something a bit more comfortable and less crowded, then we've found hiring a holiday apartment well in advance, is the way to go.

The spacious living room

We booked our gorgeous West End Condo around 6-8 weeks before we planned our trip and really fell on our feet. This was still a bit late to book bargain train tickets (think well in excess of £100 return from London this far in advance per person) so we decided to drive which takes around 7 and a half hours from North London to the centre of Edinburgh.

We stayed not too far from Murrayfield Stadium and just in from Edinburgh Zoo - in fact around the corner from the Museum of Modern Art' which was a fair walk in (I reckon about half a hour to the Royal Mile at a good pace) but is on bus routes and costs around £7-8 by taxi. I cannot write enough superlatives about this particular holiday rental. It's been beautifully decorated and fantastically well equipped with everything you would need. Even a torch in the DVD storage cupboard so you can really see what's there!

The kitchen was better than my one at home (always galling when that happens) and there are two bathrooms in this two double bedroom-ed flat, one with an enormous bath and one with a walk-in shower. There is even a spare single bed up in the loft room so it does sleep five adults easily.

There's a large and comfortable sitting room complete with a huge flat-screen TV with Sky. The folder supplied by the owners really does cover everything from the best places to visit in Edinburgh to when to put out the various bits and pieces of recycling and rubbish. Beds were large, very comfortable and with gorgeous cotton bedlinen - even the furniture was fine quality and solid.

We booked this short break in the UK through Holidaylettings.com and our three night stay for 4 adults cost from £92 per night (outside of festival) which for a flat in Edinburgh of this high standard during festival season was an absolute bargain - we will definitely be back!

Other places to stay if a hotel is more your thing (I haven't tested these but they come up time and again)

21212
Perfect for foodies this multi award winning restaurant has 4 beautiful bedrooms with lounge areas to relax over the two upper levels of the house. You can even have restaurant quality breakfast in bed. 3 Royal Terrace, EH7 5AB 0131 523 1030

The Glasshouse
This is truly amazing - architecturally brilliant and based in the centre there are 65 guestrooms and a two acre roof garden with spectacular views. The Glasshouse, EH1 3AA 0131 535 8200

The Sheraton
This is a Sheraton with a rooftop pool and spa and all rooms have mood lighting, media hubs and amazing beds (the Sheraton is known for it's Sweet Sleeper Bed). Ask for a room overlooking Edinburgh Castle. 1 Festival Square, EH3 9SR. 0131 229 9131

The Caledonian (Waldorf Astoria)
A luxury £24 million renovation and investment programme means that this is one of THE places to stay. Formerly a Victorian railway hotel in the shadow of Edinburgh Castle this is a beautiful place to stay and has the largest bathrooms of any in Edinburgh (apparently). Princes Street, EH1 2AB. 0131 222 8888.





   

Villefranche sur Mer on the Cote D'Azur

Infinity pool at The Grand Hotel du Cap Ferrat

I am a very lucky girl and got the chance to hop on an EasyJet flight to visit some friends in Villefranche sur Mer in the very south of France. I have never been to this part of France, normally sticking to the Loire, Burgundy or Provence, but I was quite simply astounded at how very beautiful this part of the world actually is.

Now I see why rock stars, film stars, writers and painters have made this their home. Who wouldn't given the chance?

Villefranche sur Mer is quite literally over a hill from Nice so a mere 20 minutes (traffic allowing) from the airport. Sharply tumbling down the hillside into the sea, it has the deepest port in the Mediterranean so plays host to super-yachts and the occasional cruise ship the size of a small town. The town and waters were also home to the US navy under NATO so was a place of ill-repute for quite a while. No longer the home to bars and brothels, the sleepy seaside port focuses on small independent restaurants, shops and cafes where you can meander around the 18th century streets, take in the atmosphere or sit in the sun.

Rooftops of Villefranche sur Mer

There is no real beach at Villefranche sur Mer (just a pebbled and packed piece of beach along from the old town) but if you're lucky you can pay a fee and grab a lounger by a pool in one of the hotels. An hour and a half from the UK and you need at least factor 20 suncream! Everywhere has a view of the Cap Ferrat, with the most expensive real estate in the world and you don't ever have to pay for a view! Cap Ferrat is pretty irresistible and we did indulge ourselves to a day pass to the amazing pool at the Grand Hotel du Cap Ferrat (80 euros per person). If budget runs to it you can live like a rock star for a day - check out my photos for proof!

The fenicular railway to the pool at Cap Ferrat

Villefranche sur Mer is also amazingly placed to explore the coastline on the uber cheap french railway which runs all along the coast. You can even go to Monaco for around 7 euros - a bargain! Air conditioned and speedy the train can only really be beaten by an open topped sports car but not many of us have access to that!

A walk along the front at Villefranche sur Mer

Do as we did and book an apartment with a terrace up the hill. The 500 steps up will keep you toned and allow you to eat french pasties with impunity. We cooked simple suppers with the freshest of ingredients and watched the sun go down over the bay into the night - bliss! And on Saturday nights there's a free firework display over the harbour for added entertainment.

Steps to the Old Town, Villefranche sur Mer

EasyJet flights to Nice go from Gatwick regularly and if you book in advance you can get some real bargains. Cabs are not expensive but you can walk everywhere (apart from the Cap). Take a long weekend - the short flight time and easy going atmosphere will make you feel you've been away for much longer!

View of Cap Ferrat from above Villefranche sur Mer

Getting Away From It All - a trip to Wales

The bank holiday weekend gave us an invitation to our friends house in the beautiful Welsh countryside. This is a special invitation as this is a very special place to them. Bought by my friend Elaine's parents when she was 10 years old, she spent her formative years alongside her brothers and later boyfriend and friends, clambering up the hillside, playing in the stream and basically going a bit wild. Her children have grown up with the same experience - a rarity as all three generations are city kids by birth.

What makes this place so special is the fact that the family took the decision to keep things simple and basic. Heating is via the inglenook fireplace. Electricity - well there isn't any, not a generator and certainly no access to the nation grid. Lighting is provided by oil lamps and candles, the fridge and cooker (well there are certain modern appliances that you really do need) are run on gas bottles. The toilets are chemical but there's shower that's heated via a wall-hung boiler (but this is a recent addition).

But it is all rather wonderful because of this. There is no background hum of a generator - in fact it's so silent you can hear people talking across the valley. You have to accept the kettle will take that little longer to boil than usual, and that you are basically poo-ing into a bucket which someone (the hosts thankfully) has to clean out. If you need wood from the fire you have to bring it in from the woodshed whatever the weather and you need to bring everything you need with you (there are no local shops within reasonable walking distance). But there are views. And baby lambs in the Spring. And you talk and read and communicate as there is nothing else to distract. You can't get much of a signal on your phone and the internet is a no-no - how very wonderful!

We came home on Bank Holiday Monday relaxed and smelling of wood-smoke. Unlike our friends I couldn't live there permanently (obviously I don't have the emotional attachment to the place to allow me to live with all those basics) but I do get the attraction. A few days without email and living with what you've got (and some wonderful walks too) clears the mind, stretches the muscles and gives you a huge sense of perspective. Long may those feelings remain.

Family holidays with luxury attached

A friend of mine's daughter has just given birth to a beautiful baby boy. A first for her and a first grandchild. We are way too young for this but she is happy and that's all that matters. It brought back the early days of having very young children to me and all the things we used to do with them. Family breaks were easier kept to the UK or France at a push.

It was around about this time that hotels in the UK woke up to the idea that if they welcomed, and in fact encouraged, those with children to visit, then they would be opening up to a whole new set of visitors. Just because you have small children doesn't mean that you no longer are interested in pampering and a bit of luxury.

Way back then we stayed in Woolley Grange, one of the first the welcome young children and provide excellent childcare facilities alongside glorious bedrooms, food and luxurious surroundings. There are now more than just this hotel doing the same across the country and you can find them all at Luxury Family Holidays who are absolutely expert at providing family weekend breaks, plus some fantastic bargains mid-week and during weekends outside of the school holidays too. Short breaks with the family in the UK need not be lacking in style so check out some of these locations for your next getaway.

Thornbury Castle

Moonfleet Manor

Luxurious food at Woolley Grange

Woolley Grange

There are lots of other hotels to choose from for family breaks up and down the UK. They are all the height of luxury and have childcare facilities so you can get a break from the kids every so often throughout your stay so you can enjoy a fabulous dinner or a walk just the two of you.

I wish I had a small child so I could take full advantage - might have to wait a while for that!

Haworth Old Hall, Yorkshire

Any visit to West Yorkshire must include a day trip to Haworth which perches up high on a ridge overlooking a valley. The famous parsonage at Haworth was home to the Bronte sisters who were born in Thornton near Bradford but wrote most of their novels while living here, isolated on the top of the moors. Atmosphere seeps out of every cobble stone and lurks around every grave stone in the churchyard. The main street then falls away to the valley below and today is worth a wander, stopping off in the many tiny shops and tea-houses down the slope. Don't forget to visit the apothecary which still has all the original wooden counters and cupboards - perfect for picking up a souvenir or two.

The Bronte Parsonage

The Parsonage is now a Bronte museum so if you are mad about Wuthering Heights or any of the other Bronte books then you really mustn't miss out.

We have been here several times over the years having family in the area but I wanted really to tell you about Haworth Old Hall, originally a manor house dating back some 400 years, which is located in Sun Street at the bottom of the hill. this lovely old pub does a really good Sunday lunch but also has an extensive menu from traditional Yorkshire fare such as Old Hall Pie with slow cooked steak and Jennings Cumberland Ale to the more European tortellini, Warm french brie. They even serve a delicious sounding vegetarian curry. A pretty perfect day would include a visit to the Parsonage, a wander down the high-street then lunch at Haworth Old Hall. 

Those that remember the film, The Railway Children (or in fact the TV programme too) can then visit Haworth station which starred as the station in the film. The Parsonage also played a part being the home of  the local Doctor, and Three Chimneys where the children lived is just along the ridge from The Parsonage - again a splendid walk... You can even see the railway tunnel where the children rescued the boy whose leg was trapped in the rails and in the path of an approaching steam-train! Here are the details of The Railway Children Walk part one and here is The Railway Children Walk part two. 

Bent's House used for Three Chimneys

Sunny Weekend at Black Dog Farm

Another weekend another birthday party - or so it seems at the moment! This weekend saw us driving down in the heat to Wiltshire, just over the border from Bath and on the doorstep of Longleat to celebrate my friend, Karen's birthday. She has done the big step of leaving North London and moving to the country, to a remote 16th century cottage on the edge of a bluebell wood. Beautiful as hell, but not within striking distance of a pint of milk or a newspaper so hopeless for me...

What she was within striking distance of however, was the Black Dog Farm B&B which is at the end of her track and on the A36 - so easy to get to and a great base for exploring the area.

Black Dog Farm has been run as a B&B for the past 18 years by Lyn and Fraser Mills and it is with them that we stayed the night, staggering back along the track in the dark after an evening of drink and food. What lovely people and what a lovely place to stay.

If you are looking for bijou, boutique hotel then forget it. Black Dog Farm is traditional, slightly old-fashioned but brilliantly English, with those little touches that show that the owners want you to feel special. It was originally a coaching inn hence the close proximity to the road, and now sits within it's sprawling farm outhouses with a cottage garden reminiscent of a Peter Rabbit story.

There aren't any rabbits but there are chickens and home-made jam. The welcome by the couple is genuinely warm and friendly. Nothing is too much trouble and the rooms pretty and traditional too, with en suite and a comfortable bed. Ours overlooked the garden and a wide sky.

Breakfast was a real highlight and was enormous. Everything was excellent quality from the sausages to the fresh coffee. On returning from our night out we came across Fraser making fresh bread for the morning which provided perfect toast - what more could you ask.

Black Dog Farm is within striking distance of Bath, Bristol, Longleat Safari Park, mystical Avebury with it's ancient standing stones and many other interesting places in this fantastic part of the country. Prices are really good and they welcome those with young children (though not dogs as they have one of their own). Check their site for rates, details and more on the surrounding area.

The Black Dog Bed & Breakfast

The hen house

Black Dog gardens

A proper Georgian farmhouse hallway

The breakfast at the Black Dog Bed and Breakfast

The standing stones at Avebury